Or what determines the permeability of our skin for active substances
Enhancers are "amplifiers" of the permeability of the epidermal barrier. Many substances can disorganize the liquid crystal structures of the stratum corneum and thus facilitate the diffusion of other active ingredients. For example, natural oils containing a large amount of polyunsaturated fatty acids, free fatty acids and fatty alcohols increase the fluidity of the lipid layers of the epidermis. Oleic acid and isopropyl myristate are especially active. The group of enhancers also includes monohydric and polyhydric alcohols, among which the most famous and frequently used are ethanol and propylene glycol.
Propylene glycol acts by integrating into the liquid crystal structure domains of intercellular lipid layers, which leads to an increase in skin permeability to certain substances. Ethanol increases the solubility of active substances, changes the structure of membranes, increases the availability of active substances for penetration into the cell. Many cosmetic base components can increase the rate of penetration of active ingredients into the skin by affecting the stratum corneum itself. A number of lipids, polyhydric alcohols, emulsifiers, fragrances have this effect.
Other helpers in the delivery of useful cosmetic components to the skin:
Liposomes
Commercial products based on liposomes include the following:
- dermasomes;
- niosomes;
- spherulites;
- rovisomes;
- dragosomes;
- nizasomes, etc.
Microcapsules:
- matrix systems
- lipid nanoparticles
- micro sponges
Micro sponges are formed by inert synthetic polymers (polyacrylates, polymethacrylates and polyamides).
Nanoparticles
Biological nanoparticles are enzymes, DNA and RNA molecules, cell vesicles, ribosomes. A distinctive feature of these objects is their ability to aggregate and self-organize.
Artificial biogenic nanoparticles - in addition to liposomes, they include lipid nanotubes, lipid nanoparticles, nanoemulsions, nanoparticles based on nucleic acids.
Polymeric nanoparticles have a number of advantages that determine their effectiveness - biocompatibility, biodegradability, functional compatibility. The basis for the creation of polymeric nanoparticles are polylactic, polyglycolic acids, polycaprolactone, polyethylene glycol.
Dendrimers are a unique class of polymers with a highly branched structure and a cavity inside. Controlled dimensions and surface properties, as well as high stability, make dendrimers one of the most promising nanoparticles for use as transdermal carriers.
Carbon nanoparticles - nanotubes and fullerenes - are formed only by carbon atoms. Effective delivery systems that form stable bonds with lipid complexes, peptides and DNA. These are the most recognizable and popular nanostructures. For the discovery of this new form of existence of carbon in 1996, the Nobel Prize was awarded.
- cyclodextrins
- emulsions
(С) Les Nouvelles Esthetiques
